Reif wine garden delights the senses
By The St. Catharines Standard (Theresa Forte)

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While it's not unusual for a writer to extol the virtues of enjoying a glass of wine in the garden, a Niagara winery boasts a garden specifically designed to demonstrate the colours, flavours and aromas found in a glass of wine.

A few years ago, I enjoyed an evening of wine tasting at a local winery with a group of friends.

Our guide presented each of us with a sampling of white wines. Following his instructions, we cautiously tasted each glass and then tried to isolate and identify the characteristics of each wine. Certain members of the group were immediately able to list the flavours or scents they experienced: citrus, pear, smoke, spice and wood. I had trouble putting a label on the different flavours.

A recent tour of the Wine Sensory Garden at Reif Estate Winery in Niagara-on-the-Lake ( www.reifwinery.com), finally simplified the philosophy behind the fine art of wine tasting for me. I discovered a glass of fine wine and a beautiful garden are surprisingly similar -- each has the ability to delight the senses with colour, fragrance, texture and taste.

Opened in 2007 to celebrate Reif's 25th Anniversary, the Wine Sensory Garden was designed by the 2007 graduating class of the Niagara Parks School of Horticulture, under the direction of instructor Darren Schmahl.

The plan's formal layout reflects the heritage of the winery's 1870s coach house while representing the grape varieties typically grown here in Niagara. The garden is divided into four sections, each planted to represent a different family of wines.

As we explored the garden, Andrea Kaiser, Reif's director of retail operations, explained how flowers, fruit and herbs help people understand and appreciate the wine experience.

The tour begins in the formal perennial garden that surrounds the entry courtyard, with lush blocks of lavender, coneflower, daylily and ornamental grasses creating a cheerful welcome for visitors. A simple pergola marks the entrance to the sensory garden where four beds enclose a circular, gravelled courtyard. Brick edging, arbours, wine barrel bars and café tables encourage visitors to linger and enjoy the garden, perhaps over a glass of wine.

Full-bodied red wines known for their deep burgundy colour, such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, have chocolate, blackberry and cedar tones.

Plants with burgundy-brown foliage such as, ninebark 'summer wine', 'royal purple' smoketree and barberry 'corcorde' create a visual impact, says Kaiser. Chimney pots filled with herbs like patchouli (wood scent), chocolate mint, oak geranium (representing the barrels) and fennel represent some of complex aromas found in these red wines.

Next, a silver garden represents the family of Reisling, Sauvignon Blanc and Gewutztraminer white wines. Perennials include silver tones of lamb's ears, Russian sage, and Holt's mammoth sage, while the chimney pots include curry plant (representing the spiciness of Gewurztraminer), lime-scented geranium, and apricot scented geranium, calling to mind citrus and fruit scents found in these youthful, fresh, fruity white wines.

A third quadrant represents the lighter reds of Gamay Noir and Pinot Noirs are characterized by berry, lavender and rose.

Gamay Noir, a bright, clear red has hints of strawberry and black pepper, said Kaiser as she offered me a glass of it. Once I knew which flavours to look for, I could detect them as I tasted the wine. Pink flowering plants, such as spirea 'neon flash', hydrangea, and Veronica 'sunshine' represent the colour of the wine, while pungent pepper geranium, rosemary, and strawberry geranium embody the complex flavours found in these wines.

Dressed in golden yellows symbolizing Chardonnay, late harvests and icewines, the final quadrant glowed in the late afternoon light with selections such as hosta 'sun power', dwarf zebra grass and 'tiger eyes' sumac.

"Chardonnay aged in oak has butter and vanilla tones, is represented by the yellow plants," Kaiser explained. "Chimney pots hold peach autumn sage, apple scented geranium and lemon verbena representing the orchard fruit flavours of these wines."

While touring the wine sensory garden, it occurred to me that Niagara residents could easily borrow ideas from this garden.

Imagine yourself sitting in the backyard or on your patio surrounded by plants that symbolize the colours of your favourite wines. Like a deep red merlot? Look for plant selections with fun names that illustrate your point: weigelia 'wine and roses' or 'black lace' elder, 'little winecup' daylily, or sedum 'black jack' would be a good start. Prefer a light and fruity Chardonnay?

Brighten the garden with hostas and coral bells in shades of yellow or chartreuse, golden Japanese forest grass and 'gold nugget' barberry are good examples.

Herbs are inexpensive, easy-care and fragrant additions to the garden proper or container gardens.

Why not try cinnamon geranium, curry plant, grapefruit and chocolate mint, vanilla grass and pineapple sage will embody the aromas of several wines. Design your herb garden to include the flavours of your favourite wines by reading the descriptions on the wine labels and then selecting herbs to denote each flavour.

When you have guests over for your next barbecue, offer them a bouquet of freshly clipped herbs and ask them to pair the herbs with a sampling of Niagara VQA wines -- it's a great way to enjoy our local vintages.

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